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| Tech Corner; How & Why | |
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| Topic Started: Jun 24 2014, 08:45 PM (5,901 Views) | |
| Michael M | Jun 24 2014, 08:45 PM Post #1 |
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So today's episode will be about railings...... I probably should put it on looong time ago, but since noone was interested in that kind of stuff... well it's here now You can use that method not only for railings, applications of this technique are countless ![]() Step one: you need to know what you want to make, take piece of cardboard ![]() Step two: you draw your design on it ![]() Step three: cut out the interior ![]() Then tape it to the table (to make it flat throughout the operation) ![]() Step four: glue top line across the cut out ![]() Then you glue stanchions but just to the cardboard, just touching the top line. Step five: just dab the stanchions to top line with tiny amounts of Super Glue Step Six: you have to add a pieces of paper to equalize the thickness of the stanchions Step seven: glue bottom line/lines, but again only to cardboard. Step eight: dab the bottom line/lines to stanchions with SG. ![]() You should get something like that: ![]() Step nine: prime the bugger with rattle can primer or airbrush primer ![]() Step ten: cut it out and put on the model ![]() Edited by Michael M, Jun 24 2014, 08:46 PM.
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| Barry | Jun 24 2014, 09:19 PM Post #2 |
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Clever and simple.. I like it |
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| Michael M | Jun 24 2014, 09:40 PM Post #3 |
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Simplicity is the key to the success my friend
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| ghengismccann | Aug 21 2014, 08:38 PM Post #4 |
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Just as a matter of interest, immediate post-war/early 50's Diesel US subs Haze Grey and black? regards
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"....the old men shall cause themselves to be carried into the public squares, To excite the courage of the warriors, to preach the downfall of Kings, and announce the glories of the Republic" Convention of the Republic,Paris, Dec; 1793 | |
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| Michael M | Aug 21 2014, 08:54 PM Post #5 |
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Here is all the information you need about American submarines camouflage since the beginning of the world till modern times. If you'll still have any doubts after reading that, let me know ![]() http://www.navsource.org/archives/08/08492.htm http://www.shipcamouflage.com/warship_camouflage.htm Edited by Michael M, Aug 21 2014, 10:56 PM.
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| Prenton | Aug 21 2014, 10:08 PM Post #6 |
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Michael - dunno if it's just me, but I cannot see any of your photos. All I am getting is a slogan from photobucket in each "square" where the photo should be, saying:-("looks who's popular. Is this your photo. Upgrade to Plus for additional bandwidth") Anyone else having this problem?? I would like to see your photos.... Philip |
"To boldly go..." | |
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| Michael M | Aug 21 2014, 10:27 PM Post #7 |
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No worries,I did exceed my bandwidth for this month, it's nothing serious, everything will go back to normal on 23rd, that's when the month jumps. |
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| ghengismccann | Aug 22 2014, 07:14 AM Post #8 |
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Michael, Thank you, exactly what I was looking for on the first page. regards
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"....the old men shall cause themselves to be carried into the public squares, To excite the courage of the warriors, to preach the downfall of Kings, and announce the glories of the Republic" Convention of the Republic,Paris, Dec; 1793 | |
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| Ryano | Sep 7 2014, 06:42 PM Post #9 |
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Hey guys, I'm gonna join the group build for then fun of it, and had the awesome idea to build a sub, in a glass (or acrylic sheet) case, and somehow make it look like it's in water. Only thing I can think of is some sort of clear gel that hardens, and add a tinge of blue to it. Could turn out awesome with a couple of floating mines with chains tying them to the sea bed! Can anyone think of a substance that could work? Or another way to make it look submerged? If all else fails it's an excuse to try my hand at a waterline model! Cheers
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| fs2005 | Sep 7 2014, 06:58 PM Post #10 |
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I think this is one of THE big modelling debates since time immemorial .Not sure if you could use some kind of car repair designed clear resin ('Davids' brand name ?)but Im CERTAIN it would be evil smelling and required in vast quantities for anything other than the tiniest kit .And you do NOT want to be sanding any kind of resin without serious protection (not a 'carpenters mask') . You are probably better to try simulate 'normal' water which wont allow much to be seen 'underneath' 'in real life' anyway .Now there ARE a huge amount of different ways of doing THAT .I saw a 'Britains' (?) WW1 1/32 soldier set/diorama with gobsmackingly realistic mega high gloss water included in Marks or the Model Shop on Capel St recently . Edited by fs2005, Sep 7 2014, 06:59 PM.
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| FiSe | Sep 7 2014, 07:09 PM Post #11 |
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Heil Mickey!
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If you are planning to put it 'in the box' then you have a few ways how to do it... I can think of two at the moment, nevertheless there must be more. - You can create light box diorama and tone down the paints to represent murky /or greenish-blue/ underwater world - Paint the acrylic/perspex walls with transparent 'water' colour, that should give you the effect of underwater view Sounds interesting, hopefully you'll find some solution |
Filip . . . .![]() | |
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| Michael M | Sep 7 2014, 07:28 PM Post #12 |
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Well resin is the most obvious choice, but as said before we're talking about proper chemicals, fumes baking it and so on and so one. Result of that approach: http://www.modelwork.pl/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=33650&hilit=soryu Filip's idea is easier and effective tinted perspect for walls, but you still have to put surface with waves on top of it. |
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| Ryano | Sep 8 2014, 03:01 AM Post #13 |
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Thanks for the resin heads up, started working my first resin piece not an hour ago, and sanded it without a mask. Thankfully it was one piece, sanded about a cubic centimeter of the stuff off... Thanks again! Cheers for the replies, I'm still looking for ways to do it
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| Admin | Sep 8 2014, 07:10 AM Post #14 |
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Link This article provides some tips on working with resin, including the all important health warning. |
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| FiSe | Sep 8 2014, 07:49 AM Post #15 |
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Heil Mickey!
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There are liquid water resins and liquids available, but, I am not sure, if those are the best way to go for larger box-like dioramas. There's always danger of bubbles trapped under the models or in the 'water' itself, which will spoil the whole dio. Furthermore they are not the easiest to work with and do require a bit of experience. The more I am thinking about it, the more I believe that the best way is to create a 'box' dio with solid bottom and perspex sides. Top could be done by using some of those water solution. I've seen somewhere the wave effect created by pouring the 'water' resin on squashed and leveled alu foil. You can then cut the cured sheet it into size and close the box with it at the end. Edited by FiSe, Sep 8 2014, 07:49 AM.
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Filip . . . .![]() | |
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| Ryano | Sep 8 2014, 12:22 PM Post #16 |
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Thanks fise, if I attempt to make an "in water" sub, there won't be a water surface on top, it will be deep water, maybe with a mine around, and possibly some dirt for a sea bed. If I can't figure it our, I may have a go at a plaster waterline model!
Thanks alkatraz! |
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| Jasonb | Sep 8 2014, 01:13 PM Post #17 |
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This is an excellent idea for a display... If you're going for deep water, I'd probably go with Filip's suggestion about a transparent sheets on the outsides of the box, to make it look like it's in water. It could even be darker towards the bottom of the glass. Might not be a bad idea to check out some Aquarium Stores (like Seahorse Aquariums near the Red Cow for example) for ideas and/or props, including some background sheets they have. The interesting part will be figuring out a way to suspend the Sub, at least the mines could be on chains... J. |
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On the bench - Tamiya 1:20 Ferrari F2001 Completed builds - Click here | |
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| fs2005 | Sep 9 2014, 06:29 PM Post #18 |
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I wouldn't be a big health and safety guy but I can tell you my lungs weren't right for weeks if not months after sanding resin -and not for long either , maybe ten minutes or less. (Using oyuMaru to mould a copy of a kids figurine - which I binned after)-and then pouring in the liquid resin )Wheezing like a tortured soul in hell at night .And symptoms took a while(few days?) to start .Maybe I just had a really bad chest infection that took ages to clear .But I didn't even guess about the resin link till after and it hasn't happened since .Either way I wouldn't try it a second time . Edited by fs2005, Sep 9 2014, 06:32 PM.
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| Dasike | Sep 9 2014, 06:51 PM Post #19 |
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I've got an idea for making a box as FiSe has suggested. I need two items from work, going to try to pick them up tomorrow after hospital. I'll do a test run either Wednesday or Thursday and put up the results. I recall seeing people do the box idea with Sherman tanks so it shouldn't be too hard to test!
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| Parkadge | Sep 9 2014, 10:58 PM Post #20 |
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The best underwater dio I've ever seen is Rhodes Williams Herr Hauptman's Champagne No idea how he did it though |
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Pat McGrath Work to become not to acquire ![]() | |
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You can use that method not only for railings, applications of this technique are countless 
















9:57 AM Jul 11