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Why and How ?; Canopies and Klear
Topic Started: Oct 14 2013, 07:43 PM (3,503 Views)
gmccabe01
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As the title says, why and how do you put klear on canopies and windows ?
Off now to look at youtube vids on panel washes (doing my first aircraft bf 110 as stated in the check in desk).
Any other tips/advise is always welcome and thanks to Jasonb for the read and use of his excellent build log.

Thanks for the replies ladies and gents
Edited by gmccabe01, Oct 14 2013, 10:55 PM.
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Karl187
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Well I've heard you can glue clear parts using Klear but I'm not sure about that as I've never tried it- I use Deluxe Materials Glue N Glaze for clear parts. I dip all my clear parts into Klear- this helps protect them from attracting too much dirt or fingerprints.
Karl N. Hoy

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Ethiopian BMP-1 (Trumpeter 1/35)

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Admin


Klear seems to make canopies clearer for whatever reason. I've tried it myself and it does work, even with the new formula.

Using a pair of tweezers I'll dip the canopy in the Klear then gently press it onto some kitchen roll to whisk off excess. Then I'll hide it in a clean box to avoid dreaded dust as it dries.

With aircraft canopies especially you have to be wary of it pooling.
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Murfv
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Abuser Of Plastic
As to why, I find that by coating a clear part in Klear it improves the clarity of the
parts as well as hides smaller scratches or blemishes that may be on the canopy and as Karl says
helps to keep parts free of dirt and fingerprints.
As Sean says, dip the part in Klear, wick away any excess with some kitchen paper and leave on clean piece of
kitchen paper and cover to avoid any dust settling on it while teh Klear dries
Also, if fixing clear parts with CA/superglue uncoated canopies the fumes that are given
off can cause a fogging effect on the clear plastic, a coat of Klear will protect the part being effected.
If you want to use Klear as an adhesive what I do is to pour some out into a small container
(a lid from old tin of Humbrol or similar)and leave it to evaporate and thicken a bit.
You can then use it for attaching clear parts or small photo etch parts such as multi-layer
instrument panels which use printed 'plastic' film for the faces of the dials.

I'm sure that others can suggest more uses.
Edited by Murfv, Oct 14 2013, 10:00 PM.
Vincent
It's my hobby and I will enjoy it my way!

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gmccabe01
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Thanks for the answers, as stated first aircraft so trying to start on the right foot so to speak and I think joining this site was the best first step.
Won't be able to join the club till start of next month (limited funds) but a new member is definitely on the way.
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Jasonb
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I'm impressed you were able to find my build log gmccabe01! :)

It's a lovely kit, but in typical Eduard fashion maybe a little over engineered and complicated for its own good. Definitely take your time with it, the fit can be tight in places, especially after you've added paint!

I'm not too familiar with the C Version, but if it has the same Pilot's 'side windows' that drop down sideways, don't make my mistake and leave them horizontal, drop them down fully against the fuselage (assuming you're leaving the cockpit open!). It's easier to do this if you bend the edge of the PE frame that's attached to the back of them, so that the edge of the PE glues flat to the cockpit edge, while the windows glue flat to the Fuselage (I hope that makes sense!)

J.
On the bench -
Tamiya 1:20 Ferrari F2001

Completed builds -
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Karl187
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Well for armor models the main use of Klear is to provide a varnish-like sealing coat prior to doing things like a wash. The Klear protects the paint like a varnish would. The shiny surface it leaves on the model provides an excellent surface for thinner-based washes to flow into and around details. In figure modelling you can also use it to add a natural sheen to the eyes but also to bring out the natural lustre of things like leather. The good thing about brushing Klear is that it goes on in very thin coats allowing you to customise the level of sheen you want from very little to lots.
Edited by Karl187, Oct 15 2013, 12:03 PM.
Karl N. Hoy

On The Bench:


Ethiopian BMP-1 (Trumpeter 1/35)

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Joseph M

For what it's worth, I have used PVA glue very successfully on all clear parts. The glue dries invisible. Its cheap, and has no nasty smells.
Joe M
On the bench in order of nearest to completion;
A Model 1/72 Spad A.2 Finished 24/4/18
A Z Models 1/72 Morane "WR". (Schneider race entry from 1914).
K P Models 1/72 Avia BH-3
Mark 1 Models 1/144 Gloster Gladiator Finished 1/7/8
SRAM Models 1/144 SIA 7-B (Resin)
Valom Models 1144 A pair of Sopwith Pups
MSD Models 1/72 Vickers Vimy 66 Commercial
Revell 1/72 Fokker D.VII conversion to a two seater
Curtiss Condor (added 24/4/18) 1/81
Ansaldo S.V.A 9 (added 24/4/18)

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gmccabe01
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Jasonb
Oct 14 2013, 10:42 PM
I'm impressed you were able to find my build log gmccabe01! :)

It's a lovely kit, but in typical Eduard fashion maybe a little over engineered and complicated for its own good. Definitely take your time with it, the fit can be tight in places, especially after you've added paint!

J.


Having trouble fitting the wings, they don't even fit to the body (the lug that fits into the body to thick) so a lot of sanding to do.

Many thanks to everyone for the tips, maybe a pinned topic of hints and tips only would be a good idea ?
(keep them all in the one place and make them easer to find) either in this section or the beginners section ?
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trpsarge

Some appropriate food colour mixed with Klear tints canopies.
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